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SALSA VIVA PORTUGAL

writer: lyw

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SALSA VIVA PORTUGAL 

May 2004

Just got back to Toronto from Salsa Viva, Portugal.  I was in Portugal for a wedding.  As a proud salsera, I would have been ashamed to return home without at least one international salsa story.  

Obrigada to Joao Luis Santos for being the perfect host.  I met him after posting a search for Salsa clubs in Lisbon on the Dance Forums discussion board.  Joao invited me to the Salsa Viva party at the Athletic Club in Almada, 'Beira Mar Atlético Clube', a monthly Salsa Party -- one of the biggest monthly Lisbon region parties.  

This scene is tight.  Everybody pretty much knows everybody.  Joao identified me in the club because I was the only girl there that he didn’t know.  Nobody approached me to dance until after he said hello.  And bless his heart, thereafter, I must have had about 15 different dance partners.

The L.A. style leads are excellent.  Or Joao only sent me the goods.  Even so, I’d say over 15 good leads in one place is an excellent average.  The leads aren’t highly technical but smooth and effortless.  Attached is a crazy picture of my favourite lead that night.  I realize it looks like he’s grabbing her ass, but you must believe me, he was a pleasure to dance salsa with .. and he didn't grab MY ass. 

I was impressed by the variations in style in many of the dancers.  I didn't find the turn patterns redundant.  As an intermediate salsa dancer from Toronto, I do find this can be the case in Toronto intermediate styles and patterns.  I'm guessing that a lot of the individual moves, in Toronto, are taught in choreographed turn patterns.   So, as for Lisbon/Almada, I wondered where these dancers started out. They either had the same teachers and had been dancing long enough to find their own comfort or they all had different teachers.  One day, I would like to hear this story about how L.A. style salsa came to Portugal.

Joao was able to explain that some dance influences to their salsa scene came from their Brazilian and African communities.   An extra treat that evening was being introduced to Kizomba.  “A very sensual rhythm from Angola and Cape-Green (very, very similar to Zouk)” Joao explained.  (“What’s Zouk?” I should have asked).  

Unfortunately, I’ve completely forgotten the dance.  I only remember that it was timed in sets of three steps, alternating.  Very close frame.  The music sounds like a cross between Merengue and Reggae.

I attached, unabridged, a sample of the flood of dance knowledge readily available from Joao:

“Yeah, Kizomba is great!  Kizomba evolved from an Angola Rhythm called 'Semba' that some consider to be in the origin of Samba (Brazil), or at least some say that the name Samba comes from Semba (I read an academic article saying that).  But the way that Kizomba is danced doesn't resemble Samba at all. Kizomba is a slow couple dance, danced close together and has a clear influence of Tango in some Steps.  In one of Lisbon’s more well known weekly Milongas (Tango Party) Kizomba is danced a lot. In Cape-Green you have Kizomba, too, but there it’s called 'Passada'.  It's danced the same way, the rhythm is the same but you can tell by the sound when it's a Kizomba from Angola or a Kizomba from Cape-Green.” 

“The best places in Lisbon to dance Kizomba (as other African couple dances like: 'Coladera', 'Funana', 'Morna'): B.Leza, Mussulo, Enclave and Comvento.”

“Some of these discos have really good African restaurants where you can have late dinners or early breakfasts.  Coladera is a Cape-Green music style that is danced in a couple, very similar to Cuban Son. Funana is an electrifying Cape-Green music style (again) that is danced very much like Merengue but with a different dynamics (more aggressive when hitting the floor with the left foot) and less figures with the arms.”

According to Joao, the best places to dance Salsa in Portugal are:

Barrio Latino - in the Lisbon area known as 'Expo' in the east side. The area has a lot of bars with a nice view to the river.  Friday nights are hosted by a large Lisbon salsa school.  Saturday salsas.  Sunday salsa matinees.

Salsa Latina -  (in 'Docas') they have a Cuban live band on Saturdays, but you will not find so many people to dance as in 'El Barrio', because Salsa Latina is more the commercial kind of place (Merengues, pop-salsa, etc..) except on the first and last Thursday of each month when you have the 'Salsero night' with top Portuguese salsa DJ's.

Their salsa nights run between 12:30 – 6:00 a.m.,  “After that you can go to an African Disco to dance more,” Joao said.  (“Who wants to dance more after 6 a.m.?” I didn’t ask).

I was also impressed when several dancers asked me if I knew Orville of Salsation.  If Orville, a Toronto-based Salsa performer, ever visits Portugal, he should be prepared for a warm reception.  Unfortunately, I've never seen Orville perform, but there was one performance that stands out very clearly in the minds of many of the dancers from Salsa Viva.

When asked about the Toronto Salsa Scene, I admitted that Toronto had a lot of high caliber dancers but that this was likely the result of some of the dancers getting a little crazy.  “These people dance 5 – 6 nights a week.  I don’t know how they get anything else done.  Some of them have quit their day jobs,” I explained.

Joao and his girlfriend paused before admitted that they must be crazy, too, as they were preparing to open their own school.  Joao is in physics.  His girlfriend is in tourism. 

                                                                                              

This night alone introduced a small but dedicated salsa scene keenly interested in learning and adopting new sounds and moves.  At the same time, they are eager to give back their own native rhythms, ideas and culture.  They encourage the influence of the On 2, mambo style that is growing throughout the global salsa scene.  They also encourage salsa dancers to try these other fine Brazilian/African dances enjoyed throughout Portugal.   Such is the magnificence and universal passion for dance.   

 

copyright lyw 2004

 

 

by lyw

 

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